Power station for travel and camping – what size do you need?

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In short: Add up the daily consumption of all devices in watt-hours (watts × hours), divide by efficiency (assumed 85 %), multiply by days without recharging and add a reserve. Result = minimum capacity in Wh. Calculate directly: power calculator. As of October 2026.

The three numbers that matter

Power station spec sheets are full of figures. Three really count:

A 1,000 Wh station with only 300 W output won’t run a kettle – and a 2,000 W station with 250 Wh capacity is empty in no time.

The formula

Capacity (Wh) ≈ Σ (watts × hours) ÷ efficiency × days × (1 + reserve)

• Watts: the device’s average draw (not the peak rating on its power supply).
• Hours: how long it runs per day.
• Efficiency: conversion losses. Via the 230 V inverter 10–20 % is often lost, via USB-C or 12 V less. We assume 85 %.
• Days: how long you want to last without recharging.
• Reserve: buffer for cold, ageing and the unexpected, e.g. 20 %.

Step by step

1. List the devices you want to run on the road.
2. Find each device’s average power – datasheet, plug-in power meter or the power station’s display.
3. Estimate daily runtime honestly.
4. Calculate watt-hours per device and add them up.
5. Divide by efficiency, multiply by days and reserve.
6. Check continuous output: the sum of devices running at the same time must stay below the station’s rating.

Worked example (assumptions)

395 Wh ÷ 0.85 ≈ 465 Wh per day. For 2 days without recharging plus 20 % reserve: 465 × 2 × 1.2 ≈ 1,116 Wh.

Second example: a camper weekend

520 Wh ÷ 0.85 ≈ 612 Wh per day. For a weekend (2 days) with 20 % reserve: ≈ 1,470 Wh – or less capacity plus a solar panel. The cool box is the biggest item here; its real consumption depends heavily on outside temperature and insulation.

Typical consumption values

These are rough guide values – measure yourself if in doubt.

What to look for when buying

• DC outputs: 100 W USB-C PD and a 12 V port avoid conversion losses compared with the 230 V outlet. Ideal for the Starlink Mini.
• Cell chemistry: LiFePO4 is designed for many charge cycles but heavier; compare manufacturer data.
• Charging: mains, car (12 V) and solar input – including maximum solar input voltage.
• Cold: many LiFePO4 batteries must not be charged below 0 °C.
• Weight: from about 1,000 Wh it gets heavy to carry – irrelevant in a camper, relevant on foot.
• Flights: power stations with several hundred Wh are practically never allowed.
• Expandability: some models accept extra batteries.

Brands compared

We don’t cite test results we haven’t produced ourselves. Compare datasheets for capacity (Wh), continuous output (W) and ports.

Planning solar realistically

Required panel power ≈ daily need ÷ peak sun hours ÷ (1 − losses). With 465 Wh, 4 peak hours and 25 % losses: ≈ 155 W. A panel only delivers its rated power under ideal conditions – low sun, clouds, heat and shade cost a lot. At northern latitudes in winter, solar provides hardly any usable power. More on powering the Mini: Powering the Starlink Mini on the road – power bank, power station, solar.

Common mistakes

• Using peak instead of average power – the result is far too large.
• Forgetting efficiency – the station runs out sooner than expected.
• Running everything via 230 V – USB-C and 12 V are more efficient.
• Not checking continuous output – the device won’t start or the station shuts down.
• Overestimating solar – the panel’s rating is a lab value.

FAQ